Monday, April 19, 2010

Anatoli's Idosyncratic Tour

The clinics I've seen so far are at the top of the heap.  They are modern, efficient and compare to what I've seen in the United States with doctors and technicians who seem to enjoy their jobs and take pride in being up to date and providing excellent care.  However, we hear about other private clinics and municipal clinics where it seems the care may be of lesser quality and takes more of the patient's time.
Today after law school and 2PM lunch, Anatoli the dentist takes us to his dental clinic.  It is in a dingy part of town.  The signage for the clinic and the entryway are dingy.  The rooms inside have the usual dental chairs and other equipment, but it may not be the most modern.  The rooms are (how do I best say it?) dingy.  Anatoli tells us the clinic is open until 9PM six days a week and 30 general dentists and dental specialists spend some time there each week.  He then drives us to his "cosmetic clinic" named Nefertiti and featuring an ancient Egypt theme.  It turns out to be what we might call a day spa.  Anatoli, I think, is trying to make ends meet and have a little extra (he has told us a dentist might make $10,000-$15,000 annually which I could harldly believe, so I twice confirmed the numbers with him.  He tells us that, as in the US, dentists can make more than doctors.  I am doubtful of the complete accuracy of the communication).  The day spa has a tanning bed in one room, a manicure and pedicure area, a massage room, and a hairdressing room where one man is getting his hair cut.  The other rooms are empty of clients.
Over Gala's objections, Anatoli decides to show us the "real Irkutsk".  We go to the animal adoption center in the boondocks.  Dogs are there for adoption and there is a dog hotel for owners who will be gone.  Amazingly, there are three Siberian bears in small cages as well as a Siberian lynsx and wolf.  Many horses are there as well.  We see the airplane factory where many MIG fighters were made.  We do go to the Eastern Orthodox cathedral where Anatoli buys Jim and I each a small piece of the building in a small bag to carry with us for good luck.  Confusingly, he announces that he is an atheist.  We drive to a high point in the city where the panoramic view is less spectacular than it used to be because of broken bottles and new construction.  We drive through the military officers school.  Jim feels he could now handle driving through Irkutsk confidently.
The tour lasts so long Anatoli must drop Gala, Jim, and I off at Svetlana's apartment where we are expected for a real Siberian dinner.  Pascha (Paul) and Svetlana are on the sixth floor where they have what appears to be a one bedroom condominium built recently that they share with their 15 month old son, Tim.  Pascha is the head public prosecutor for one of the Irkutsk districts.  Svetlana is the translator that shared duties with Gala on Jim's previous teaching stint at the Baikal National University of Economics and Law.  Svetlana has read an American theory of early reading and many items around the apartment are labeled with their names in Russian in large print so Tim sees them and may recognize the words.  She will add English labels later.  The label "Mama" has an attractive picture of Svetlana.  The label "Papa" has a newspaper photo of Pascha with accompanying article detailing his team's investigation and capture of a murderer.  The public prosecutor is a combination investigative policeman and prosecuting attorney, unlike the US.
Dinner is served with juice and, kanyeshna (of course), vodka.  There are slices of beef tongue with mustard, fish patties, small pickles, a cabbage salad, and delicious mushrooms.  The neighbor, a young woman, comes to take Tim to her apartment for babysitting during the adult dinner.  Pascha drops Jim and I off at the apartment and then takes Gala home.
Tomorrow is the CircumBaikal railway trip at 7:30AM.

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